Hidden TV Cabinet
- Vicki Liston
- Apr 20, 2021
- 6 min read
We try not to leave things out when they aren’t in use… but we noticed that we were doing exactly that with our television. This Hidden TV Cabinet keeps it and all related electronics nicely stored away.
You’ll need (affiliate link proceeds are all donated to no-kill animal shelters and rescue organizations):
2 and a half inch, 2 inch, and 1 and a quarter inch screws. You may also need some washers.
Miter saw, nail gun, safety glasses, 1-inch brad nails for the nail gun, measuring tape, level, drill, pilot hole and screwdriver bits, wood filler, sandpaper, and two door hinges.
6 swivel caster wheels. Since the cabinet is going to be heavy, I’m using non-marking wheels to protect my floors.
Paints, stains, brushes, and a drop cloth
TV lift – I’d originally looked into using a linear actuator for this project but after adding up all the additional parts requirements, to include a DC transformer and remote control as well as the process of building guides, I found that an off-the-shelf TV lift is actually less expensive, requires less material, AND makes for a much easier project.
All measurements given in this project are for a 48 inch TV and this particular TV lift. There’s a lot of wood to cut so I’ll be giving you the measurements as we go.
First, cut four 2x4s at 40 inches long. Lay out two of these and top with 1x4s cut at 24 inches long. You’ll be cutting 12 but only adding 11 right now.
Tack in place with the nail gun…flip over…drill pilot holes…and secure each 1x4 end with a 2-inch screw.
Follow the same process for the other two 2x4s. These are your two side pieces.
Cut four 2x4s at 60 inches long and attach to the outer top and bottom of the two side pieces with two and a half inch screws. Always drill pilot holes first to avoid wood splits.
Lay the frame down and begin assembling the back. Attach nine 1x4s cut at 60 inches long with 2 and a half inch screws. Start right underneath the 2x4 and line up next to each other and keep going to cover almost the entire back. Leave the gap at the bottom unfilled for cords and airflow.
While the piece is laying down, add a 60 inch 2x4 along the bottom edge of both the front and back with two and a half inch screws. Use two screws per end to reinforce these corners.
Once the bottom 2x4 supports are in, add the 12th 1x4 to the bottom of each of the side pieces. Tack in place with the nail gun and secure with a 2 inch screw on each end from the inside.
Attach the wheels to the bottom 2x4 on each corner with 1 and a quarter inch screws. If needed, use washers for a more secure fit. Attach the last two wheels in the middle.
Return the cabinet upright so it’s sitting on its wheels and assemble the floor. Place 16 – 24 inch 1x4s on top of the bottom supports. There will be a gap at the end so rip the 17th 1x4 to size with a table saw.
Secure the boards in place with the nail gun.
Find the middle of the cabinet’s back and mark with a pencil.
Remove the base plate from the TV lift
Cut a 7 inch 1x4 and place it under the base plate for a little extra height. Secure the back two holes down with 2 inch screws and the front two with 1 and a quarter inch screws. Use washers if needed.
Reconnect the TV lift to the base plate and use a level to ensure the lift sits perfectly straight. Mark the holes with a pencil. Drill pilot holes through the markings.
Using these pilot holes as reference, line up a 33 inch 2x4 underneath each one. They should wedge in between the top and bottom 2x4s and will serve as additional support for the weight of the TV. Secure at both ends with a few 2 inch screws.
Secure the TV lift to the back of the cabinet with 1 and a quarter inch screws.
Attach the TV to the lift and test.
Cut two 2x4s at 24 and 1/8 inches and wedge in on either side of the TV. Secure with 2 and a half inch screws.
Place a 64 inch 1x4 along the front edge of the cabinet. Ensure that the overhang on either side is the same and that there is 1 and 3/4s inches of overhang on the front. Secure with 2 and a half inch screws.
Place four more 64 inch 1x4s behind this piece to make part of the top. Secure with 2 inch screws into the two 2x4s on either side of the TV.
Lay down four 64 inch 1x4s and place a 13 and a half inch 1x4 under each end. Secure the ends in place with 1 and a quarter inch screws.
Place this piece on the open area on the top. Make sure there’s a small gap between this piece and 1x4 in front of it.
Place the hinges on either end underneath the back top piece. Mark where they sit with a pencil.
Remove the top and secure one side of the hinge into the 2x4 with 1 and a quarter inch screws.
Use the pencil marks to secure the other side of the hinge to the top piece.
Cut two 17 inch 1x4s and place them on either side of the front part of the top so they line up with the hinged top’s 1x4s. Tack in place with the nail gun.
When inside of the cabinet, my TV sits about 7 inches from the back so I’m going to start building the middle at 8 inches from the back.
Line a 36 inch 2x2 up so that the back edge is at 8 inches from the back. Secure with a 2 inch screw at each end. Follow the same process for the other side.
Use 2 scrap 1x4s to stack and support a 60 inch 1x4 at each end. This will create a gap for cords and ventilation. Screw each end of the 1x4 into the 2x2 with one and a quarter inch screws.
Add three more 1x4s.
Before adding the 5th 1x4, use one scrap piece at each end to create another gap.
Add four more 1x4s… and then rip a 5th to finish off the wall.
Mark the bottom front 2x4 at 20 inches and at 40 inches.
Place a 39 inch long 2x2 at the 20 inch mark and secure from behind and at both ends with 2 and a half inch screws.
Place a 33 inch long 2x2 on the wall directly behind the front one. This should fit on the wall itself and not block any of the gap at the top or bottom. Secure at both ends with 2 inch screws.
Cut eleven 13 and 3/4s inch long 1x4s and begin placing them to the right of the 2x2s.
Tack in with the nail gun.
Cut an 11 inch 1x2 and place it on the back of the divider wall just assembled. Its top edge should sit 3/4s of an inch under the gap. Secure in place with 1 and a quarter inch screws.
Cut a 10 and a quarter inch 1x2 and place it directly opposite of the first 1x2. Use a 1x4 and level to ensure it sits straight and secure in place with 1 and a quarter inch screws.
Place 2 1x4s and 1 1x2, all cut at 21 inches long on the two 1x2s to create the first shelf.
Create another shelf the same way above the first.
Note – Add 2 inch screws through the shelf bearing, nailed-in 1x4s for a more secure and stable shelf.
Follow the same process for the other side of the cabinet at the 40 inch mark to create another section with two shelves.
Create shelves in the middle section following the same process.
To make the doors, cut six 40 inch 1x4s and lay them down with a 21 and half inch 1x4 under each end. Secure in place with 1 and a half inch screws.
Make a second door following the same process.
Fill in any nail holes with the wood filler and sand smooth when dry.
Paint, stain, or do both to the cabinet. If you decide to leave the TV in place during the painting process, cover it with a drop cloth first. I’m only painting the outside, front shelving, and doors.
Spray paint the sliding door track and hardware. I’m using Rust-Oleum’s metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze.
When dry, mount the sliding door track under the top front 1x4’s overhang with the accompanying screws. These screws should not be longer than 3/4s of an inch so they don’t push through the top.
Add the track hardware to the tops of both doors.
Feed the hardware’s wheels onto the track to create sliding doors for the left and right side cabinets.
Add the accompanying stops to either end so the doors don’t fall off.
Load with your favorite electronics…
...and only see your TV when you want to watch it.
Watch the step by step video tutorial below! Proceeds from this video - and the entire channel - are donated to no-kill animal shelters and rescue organizations. Please watch, like, share, and subscribe to help raise donations ❤
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