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Build an Easy Dog Ramp

  • Writer: Vicki Liston
    Vicki Liston
  • Apr 7, 2022
  • 3 min read

Bailey’s still a puppy to me but at 13 years old, he doesn’t like doing a lot of jumping. So let’s build him a sturdy doggie ramp!


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You’ll need: (Do your Amazon materials shopping at THIS LINK as all affiliate link proceeds are donated to no-kill animal shelters and rescue organizations)


2x4s and 1x4s


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Indoor/outdoor rugged mats


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A miter saw, safety glasses, measuring tape, a sanding block, a nail gun and staples, a straight edge, and a utility knife.


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A drill and bits for pilot holes and screws, 2 and a quarter inch screws, and two 4 inch bolts with washers and nuts. Make sure one of the bits is as wide as the bolts.


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First, get your measurements. I’m going to be mainly using this for my truck so I’m measuring the height where he jumps in – which is 18 inches tall.


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I also want to store it inside of the truck between uses so I’ll make it 48” long.


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Since Bailey is a bit of a big boy, I want it wide enough for his normal gait so I’m going with 16” wide.


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With these measurements in mind, cut the wood to size with the miter saw. You’ll want:

2 2x4s cut at 48 inches long

14 1x4s cut at 16 inches long

1 2x4 cut at 13 inches long

2 2x4s cut at 16 inches long – these are the legs


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Note – if you want build a ramp with a different height than mine, simply take the height measurement and subtract 2 inches for the leg length.


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The two 2x4s legs should also have a 45 degree angle cut out of one corner so that you’ve cut 1 and a half inches off of the piece.


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You’ll need another 2x4 cut but wait until later to get the exact measurement.

Sand all of the cut ends with the sanding block.


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Lay out the two 48 inch 2x4s parallel and on their short sides and place a 1x4 across the top. Drill pilot holes and then secure in place with screws.


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Continue until the 2x4s are covered with 1x4s.


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Lay the indoor/outdoor mats on top of the 1x4s. These will give Bailey a better grip while using the ramp.


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I don’t like the curved edges, though. Use a straight edge and utility knife to take off the curved edges if desired.


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Butt the mats up against each other to fully cover the ramp.


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Use the nail gun and staples to secure the mats in place along all edges.


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Turn the ramp on its side and add the 13 inch 2x4 to the top end.


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Use a bit as wide as the bolts to drill a hole in the center top and about an inch and a half down on the leg 2x4s. This should be on the cut-out end.


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Place the 2x4 inside of the ramp so that the cut corner side is facing down. Leave a gap of about 3/4s inches or slightly less between the 2x4 and the end of the ramp.


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Use a pencil to mark the hole on the ramp frame.


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Drill a hole on the mark and through the frame.


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Run a bolt through the frame and through the leg. There should be a washer on both sides. Secure in place with the nut.


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The nut should be tight so there’s some resistance when you move the legs but not so much so they don’t move at all.


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Once you have both legs in place, stand the ramp up and measure between the two legs.

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Cut a 2x4 to the exact measurement. This will stabilize the legs together.


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Turn the ramp over on its side and screw into both legs to secure.


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The legs should now be able to pull out for use and collapse for storage.


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Let’s try this out! Position the ramp and make sure the legs are sitting flat on the ground.


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Bailey's about 75 pounds and the ramp remains stable and strong under his weight.


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This is a MUCH easier way to get up into the truck for fun rides and his hips and knees aren't stressed by jumping!


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And coming back out won't involve a painful jolt when he lands on the ground anymore.

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And I can fold the legs up underneath the ramp and store it in the truck between uses.


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Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below. This video and the entire channel donates to no-kill animal shelters and rescue organizations each month. Watch, like, subscribe, and share to help raise these monthly donations ❤❤❤



 
 
 
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